GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVÉ PROVES THAT PEARLS ARE TIMELESS
A haute couture collector recently told me that no one does fabric like Armani Privé. And while one could easily brush that comment off as idle chitchat, seeing how the 89-year-old designer plays with embellishment up-close is truly something to behold—even if couture is the surreal pinnacle of adornment. Case in point? The label’s fall/winter 2024 show in Paris, which took supersized pearls and placed them on hats, covered long maxi gowns in tiny versions of them, and trimmed sheer suit jackets and gauzy maxi dresses in scintillating mountains of mini pearlescent beads. If the mix of 1940s Italian jazz by Lina Termini and others wasn’t enough to set the mood, the clinking of the embellishment as models sauntered down the runway added a soothing, ASMR-like vibe.
After all, couture in general is all about opulent decadence, and the pearl was at the center of this particular collection, rooted in its language, history, and meaning across cultures. “Sensing a widespread need for serenity and constantly seeking a calm and intimate quality, Giorgio Armani builds his entire collection and accompanying narrative with pearls this season,” read the show notes.
With 89 total looks (to match Armani’s age!), there was a lot to choose from, but even amidst all the excess, there were gems to be found. He took the pearl’s meaning and association with the moon, water, wisdom, purity, and love and turned it into wearable art. Jet black velvet popped against the shockingly white walls, while sheer pieces were covered in cascades of crystal fringe, feathers, and beading. The color palette hinged on neutral classics, highlighting black, gold, and taupes, while putting a focus on ornamentation.
Of course, Armani has a strong history in fashion, particularly in the ’80s, when his version of the big suit struck gold in the classic crime drama American Gigolo. So it’s no wonder so many of the looks seen on the runway had a retro sort of feeling that leaned heavily on that decade’s aesthetic, whether it be the sharp padded shoulders, the geometric printed blazer that was the second look to debut on the runway, or even the sparkling pieces that truly resembled glitzy disco balls with their kaleidoscopic shine (photos don’t do them justice!). The tailoring, with pants that hinged on harem style and tops that had Pierrot-like flounces, were a vintage lover’s dream. Maybe couture is catching on to the fact that everyone is obsessively shopping secondhand and the rarest, most expensive fashion grails are now from the past.
After the models took their final walk, Armani himself came out to take a bow, flanked by two models in matching pearlescent gowns and disco ball-like hats. The 1930s American swing ballad “Moonlight Serenade” played. The gowns were gorgeous, for sure, but the sight of such an iconic designer who’s still working today may have been the ultimate source of fascination. Sometimes, a collection doesn’t have to be groundbreaking or shocking in concept to make an impact. There wasn’t an arm in the room that wasn’t raised to take a video of Mr. Armani and his ladies. Plus, if a diamond is a girl’s best friend, then he at least proved the timeless and utilitarian effect of the pearl. Why keep it just to jewelry when it knows no bounds?